A French hair pin looks almost too simple: one U-shaped pin, two prongs, no elastic. Yet it can hold a neat French twist or a low bun once you know one small move. This guide walks you through that move step by step, with quick fixes if your pin slips. If you'd like a pin to practice with, our French Hair Pin comes in Tortoiseshell pattern, Black, Olive Green and Burgundy.
Give yourself a few tries. Almost everyone needs some practice the first time, and that's completely normal.
What is a French hair pin?
A French hair pin (also called a French pin or a U-shaped hair pin) is a long, two-pronged pin used to hold a twist or bun without a hair tie. Unlike a bobby pin, it doesn't clamp your hair shut. It works by weaving through two layers of hair: the hair in your twist and a little hair close to your scalp.
That second layer is the whole secret. When a French pin falls out, it is usually because it only caught the twist and not the hair at the base.
Before you start
- One French pin. Ours is about 13 cm (5.1 in) long, as listed by our supplier.
- Hair with a little grip. Day-two hair is often easier than freshly washed, silky hair. If your hair is very smooth, a little dry shampoo or texture spray at the roots helps.
- A mirror, if you like. After a few tries, many people find it easier to work by feel.
- Hair around shoulder length or longer. Shorter hair can work for a half-up style, but a full twist needs enough length to fold.
How to use a French hair pin in 4 steps
Step 1: Gather your hair at the nape
Brush your hair back and gather it at the nape of your neck with one hand, as if you were making a low ponytail. Don't add an elastic.
Step 2: Twist up and tuck the ends
Twist the length of your hair in one direction until it starts to coil. Lift the twist up against the back of your head and tuck the ends into the fold. Keep holding the twist with one hand.
A firmer twist gives the pin more to work with. It should feel snug, not tight. If a style ever feels painful, loosen it.
Step 3: Slide in, flip and scoop
Hold the pin with the prongs pointing up toward the crown of your head. Slide it into the top edge of the twist so it catches a little hair from the twist.
Now turn the pin so the prongs point down. As you turn it, let the tips scoop a small section of hair close to your scalp, right beside the twist.
Step 4: Push the pin in and check
Push the pin down into the center of the twist until only the top curve shows. Let go with your other hand and gently shake your head.
If the twist moves, take the pin out and repeat Step 3, scooping a bit more hair at the base. That's it.
Why your French pin slips (and quick fixes)
- The pin only caught the twist. Scoop more hair near your scalp when you flip the pin.
- The twist is loose. Twist a little tighter before you tuck the ends.
- Your hair is very silky. Add dry shampoo or texture spray at the roots and try again.
- Your hair is long or heavy. Add a second pin from the opposite side to share the weight.
- The pin went in too flat. Angle it down toward the center of the twist instead of straight across.
Tips by hair type
Fine or thin hair
Fine hair can slip because there's less hair to catch. Twist a little tighter, add some texture at the roots, and make the scoop in Step 3 count. A smaller, neater twist is often easier to pin than a big, loose one.
Thick or long hair
More hair means more weight. Make a firm twist and use two pins: place the first from the right side, then the second from the left, crossing slightly under the first. One pin holds the shape, and the second shares the weight.
Shoulder-length hair
If your ends won't tuck into a full twist, try a half-up twist: gather just the top half of your hair, twist it, and pin it at the back of your head.
Curly or wavy hair
Natural texture often gives the pin more to hold on to. Twist gently without brushing out your curls, and leave a few pieces loose around your face for a softer look.
One pin or two?
One pin is designed for a simple French twist. Two pins give you a fuller bun on long or thick hair, spread the weight, and leave you a spare for your bag. That's why we made the Duo French Twist Set: two matching pins in the color you choose for $65.
Three easy styles to try next
- The classic French twist: the four steps above.
- The low bun: twist your hair until it coils into a low bun at the nape, then slide the pin through the top edge of the bun, scooping a little hair near your scalp.
- The half-up twist: twist only the top section of your hair and pin it at the back. A good option for shoulder-length hair.
Caring for your French pin
- Store it somewhere dry, away from direct sun and high heat.
- Take it out before you sleep.
- Keep it away from young children and pets. It's an adult hair accessory, not a toy, and small pieces can be a choking hazard.
Practice twice, then make it yours
Your first try may take a few minutes. By the third, the flip-and-scoop move usually starts to feel natural. Wondering whether a French pin or a claw clip suits you better? Read French Pin vs Claw Clip: Which Is Right for Your Hair?
When you're ready, browse our French Hair Pins. Orders of $60 or more ship free in the US, and unworn items in their original packaging can be returned within 30 days. Not sure which pin suits your hair? Email support@havendoa.com and we'll help you choose.